We set off on Friday towards Koblenz and treat ourselves to a short stop just outside the city, where the Rhine and Moselle meet. The next day, we drive our car ahead to the final destination, Saarburg. Long-term parking isn’t all that easy there, but in Konz we find the perfect spot at the train station. From there, it’s an easy train ride back to Koblenz – and here’s our little insider tip: the final cycling stage passes right by Konz, so it’s ideal.
Once we arrive in Koblenz, we stroll to the Peter-Altmeier embankment on the Moselle. There, the lovely tour guide Julia welcomes us on board the MS Olympia with a warm smile. Since we’re a bit early, we leave our luggage at the ship and take a moment to enjoy the view from the Deutsches Eck over the confluence of the Rhine and Moselle – complete with the Kaiser Wilhelm monument and the mighty Ehrenbreitstein Fortress.
In the evening, our journey begins with a warm welcome from Captain Albert, Julia, hotel manager Radu, and the crew. After a glass of sparkling wine and a short introduction, it’s time to cast off! As the lights of Koblenz fade behind us, the first delicious dinner is already waiting for us in the restaurant.
A sporty start along the Moselle
The first cycling day is quite something. In the morning, the Moselle Valley lies shrouded in mist, the roads are damp, and we’re grateful for our rain jackets. Part of the route runs right alongside the main road – not the most scenic stretch, but the views of the Moselle and the vineyards more than make up for it. In Moselkern we take a break and follow the recommendation to make a detour to Eltz Castle. The path leads gently uphill through the quiet forest – a beautiful walk rewarded with a sight that makes you forget any weather. Majestically, the castle rises above the Elzbach Valley – mystical, almost fairy-tale-like.
Because of lock maintenance, today’s stage doesn’t end in Cochem but in Beilstein. Under sunny skies we return on board and enjoy a short cruise to St. Aldegund, where we spend the night.
Vineyards, views and little breaks
The next day offers several options: those who like can climb the Bremmer Calmont, the steepest vineyard in Europe – or simply cycle straight to Zell at a relaxed pace. We opt for the easygoing ride, unpack our lunch bags, and enjoy the view by the riverbank in Zell until the MS Olympia comes into sight.
The afternoon turns especially atmospheric: a covered-wagon tour through the vineyards of Zell is on the agenda. Between golden vines and gentle hills, the day winds down beautifully with a wine tasting in the warm autumn sunlight. In the evening, a Dutch duo on board provides good vibes and a bit of dancing spirit.
From Traben-Trarbach to Bernkastel-Kues
The next morning, a veil of mist bathes the Moselle Valley in soft light. To the left, the river; to the right, the Pünderich rail viaduct, with vineyards in all autumn colours stretching between them – a scene you won’t easily forget. In Traben-Trarbach, we take a short stroll through the Art Nouveau town before continuing on toward Bernkastel-Kues.
Once there, we tackle the ascent to the ruins of Landshut Castle. It’s a short but steep climb, yet the panoramic view over the Moselle is spectacular. Back down in the valley, the MS Olympia is already waiting for us, surrounded by vineyards — an idyllic spot to spend the night.
My tip
For those who don't feel like going on a short hike, the Burglandshut Express also takes everyone comfortably to the castle ruins.
An excursion with heart – wine tasting in Piesport
The next day, the route leads from Piesport to Mehring. Along the way, we visit an ancient Roman wine press. Here we meet Susanne Franzen, who runs a family winery with a palpable passion.
She tells us about working in the vineyards, about living in tune with the seasons, and about what it truly means to make wine on the Moselle – honest, heartfelt, and with a sparkle in her eyes. Alongside her stories, we enjoy a selection of Moselle wines, fresh bread from the local bakery, and a homemade Roman-style spread.
As we climb up through the vines, the sun suddenly breaks through – and down in the valley, the MS Olympia glides past. A moment that stays with you.
In the afternoon we reach Riol, where the ship moors for the night – directly across from Mehring.
Roman heritage and living history in Trier
The next stage takes us to Trier – and with it comes a wealth of history. Along the way we pass Roman villas and ancient walls. Once we arrive in Germany’s oldest city, we stroll from the landing stage into the historic centre.
Our guide Felix leads us through the narrow streets, sharing engaging stories about the Porta Nigra, the Imperial Baths and daily life in Roman times – varied, informative, and anything but dry. By the end of the tour, the sun even breaks through, as if to cast Trier once more in warm light.
Back on board, a culinary highlight awaits: the Asian theme night – authentic, surprisingly diverse, and simply delicious.
The Final Day – From Luxembourg to Saarburg
To round things off, the route makes a small detour through Luxembourg before leading us back to Saarburg. Those who like can cycle via Wasserbillig and cross the river by ferry. The path then continues along the old course of the Saar – far from traffic and accompanied by the gentle sound of the water.
Just before reaching Saarburg, we wait on the opposite riverbank to photograph the MS Olympia as she arrives – with the castle in the background, it’s a beautiful sight.
In the evening, it’s time to say goodbye. Over the captain’s dinner and a final drink in the lounge, we look back on an eventful week and agree on one thing: this journey had it all.
Our conclusion
Autumn on the Moselle is so much more than just a season. It is a play of colours shaped by mist and sunlight, tranquillity and indulgence. A blend of activity and comfort, nature and culture, and culinary delights makes a journey aboard the MS Olympia an unforgettable experience. We felt completely at home on board and would gladly return to explore the other routes.
